the Radio Attic

[This article is a Radio Attic EXCLUSIVE!  An article on restuffing aluminum can electrolytic capacitors will appear here at a later date. -- F.W.]
Click here to see how to restuff box type capacitors.
Click here to see how to restuff wax/paper capacitors.

‘Restuffing’ a capacitor is the art of repairing old capacitors by replacing the electronic component inside with modern capacitors and therefore retaining the original outward appearance while making the part again truly functional. It is a well debated fact that almost nobody will ever look under the chassis of your old radio to see if the capacitors look original! However for some restorers, the satisfaction of retaining the complete originality of the radio while also making it work well and safe to use is most satisfying.

In the 1930's and even right up to WW2, it was common to find capacitors in radios that were really two capacitors in one. In this example, you see three connections. One lead comes out each end, and a metal band around the shell of the capacitor is the third connection. Most of these types of capacitors use the band as the common and each end lead is a separate small value capacitor. Occasionally, an end lead may be the common, you have to examine the description on the shell to be sure (or consult your schematic if available).


Restuffing this type of capacitor is essentially the same procedure as the normal wax/paper capacitor we restuffed in the last installment. The only difference is the wiring inside that must be done correctly. Begin by using your heat gun to carefully heat up the wax on the ends and remove the small cardboard end caps. Put these aside for later. Choose which end you will be shoving the innards out, and work the innards that direction by applying pressure with a nut driver. Do not pull on the leads because you will only pull them away from the foil inside. The paper end will unroll and the guts should come out easily.

After the guts have been removed, clean the inside of the cardboard tube and be sure to remove any wax from the small braided lead that connects to the metal ring. Be careful to not damage the ring lead, it is a little fragile.

Choose some new metalized Mylar capacitors of the appropriate value and wire them accordingly. In this example, the outside metal ring is common, so as you can see in the photo, the ends of the caps simply solder together and the braided ring lead also solders to this common point. Be extra careful that you do not pull too hard on this lead. If you do, it will be a real difficult task to reattach it to the metal ring! You will cuss.

Once wiring is complete, it is time to put the new guts inside the cardboard shell. BE CAREFUL that the common lead does not come into contact with the outer capacitor leads! Either use some heat shrink, or use hot melt glue to insulate the common lead from the outer leads. Use hot melt glue or silicone sealant to fasten the new caps inside the cardboard tube, keeping an eye on alignment. You should keep the caps centered in the tube lengthwise in addition to keeping the leads centered in relation to the outside diameter.

Once the glue has set, re roll the open end that was used to remove the old guts. I use low heat and a screwdriver to slowly go around the edge evenly and roll it back inward. Keep the heat on so that the wax impregnated paper stays pliable. If it cools too much, the paper will whiten (as it did here a little).


After your glue sets up, attach the two small cardboard tubes to each end for a finished look. Use hot glue or silicone to fill the holes completely. If you want your caps to look completely original, use 3M 5200 mahogany colored adhesive/sealant for this task. If you do, it will be extremely difficult to tell the cap has been restuffed. For this reason, I use silicone to seal the ends of my restuffed caps so I can TELL they have been restuffed! You do have to look close to be able to tell though.

Once the glue has set, retest both sections of the cap with your capacitance meter to be sure it is correct. Sometimes, excessive heat will damage the newer caps, so it is always a good idea to double check them before installing in your radio. Use the heat gun or some acetone to clean the shell when finished if you like.  Reinstall in the radio and it will look like it always did, only now the radio will be safe and work! You cannot tell this cap is new inside (see pic.), but it sure sounds like it.


Next time, we will tackle restuffing aluminum can electrolytic filter capacitors.


Biographical note: the author is a professional broadcast engineer who lives on a mountain top in California.
He is blessed in his hobby of collecting with a beautiful wife who loves old radios as much as he does! 
to send Paul e-mail.



You are visitor number 372 to this page this year.

Archives Home  | What's New in the Archives?  | Terms & Conditions  | Master List  | Friends of the Archives  
European Radios  | Japanese Radios  | Vintage Audio  | Communications Radios  | Test Equipment  
Unknown Radios  | Featured Articles  | My Favorite Radio  | Show Us Your Workbench!  | What's it Worth?  
Radio Attic  | Old Radio Classified  | Links!  | Send Photos  

Visit Old Radio Classified

The "Archives" are presented just for fun by Steve Adams at the Radio Attic.
None of the radios in the Archives is for sale!

When cabinet material or color differences are apparent in donated photos, I have included additional photos of certain model numbers.  Due to time constraints, I must rely entirely on the accuracy of information supplied by contributors with their photographs.  As such, no guarantee is made that the model numbers presented here are correct.

Please do not download these images for any commercial purpose.  Thank you.

© 2001, 2010  the Radio Attic